Museum of the Homeland War

Fort Imperial sits at the summit of Mount Srđ like a stone crown, and inside its thick Napoleonic walls is a museum that forces you to reconcile the beauty below with the violence that nearly destroyed it. The Museum of the Homeland War tells the story of the 1991-1995 conflict through around 900 exhibits: photographs, personal belongings, weapons, military equipment, and multimedia presentations that document how a medieval tourist city became a war zone.

The siege of Dubrovnik began on October 1, 1991, when Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) forces, supported by Serbian and Montenegrin paramilitaries, surrounded the city and began shelling. Mount Srđ, where this museum now sits, was the key defensive position. A small group of Croatian soldiers — many of them locals with no military experience — held the mountain against vastly superior forces. Had Srđ fallen, the city below would have been indefensible.

The museum displays are unflinching. Photographs of the shelling show rockets hitting the Old Town, rooftops on fire, civilians sheltering in basements. Personal items from defenders — letters, ID cards, cigarette cases — personalise the statistics. Over 80 civilians were killed and hundreds wounded. More than two-thirds of the buildings in the Old Town sustained damage. The international community watched, expressed concern, and largely did nothing for months.

Walking through the museum and then stepping outside to the viewing terrace is a jarring experience. The panorama is one of the most beautiful in Europe — red rooftops, blue sea, green islands stretching to the horizon. It looks exactly like a postcard. Thirty years ago, this same view showed a city on fire. The museum ensures you see both versions.