Pontocho Alley

Pontocho is a single narrow lane — barely wide enough for two people to pass — that runs for 600 metres between Shijō and Sanjō streets, parallel to the Kamo River. It's one of Kyoto's five geisha districts and, after dark, one of the most atmospheric streets in Japan. Paper lanterns glow outside wooden doorways, each one marking a restaurant, bar, or ochaya (geisha teahouse) that you'd never find without knowing it was there.

The restaurants here range from eye-wateringly expensive kaiseki establishments to tiny yakitori joints with six seats and a grill. Many of the buildings on the eastern side have yuka — wooden platforms that extend over the river from May to September, creating open-air terraces where you eat above the water as the sun goes down. The yuka tradition dates to the Edo period and is one of Kyoto's great seasonal pleasures.

The alley is best experienced at dusk, when the lanterns come on and the kitchen sounds begin to drift out of doorways. The etiquette here mirrors Gion — if you see a geiko or maiko, give them space. Most of the teahouses are invitation-only, but several restaurants welcome walk-ins and the quality is generally excellent regardless of price. The northern end near Sanjō is slightly less formal than the southern end, and the small bridges crossing the Kamo River at either end offer views of the alley from the water side that are pure cinema.