Széchenyi Thermal Bath

Budapest sits on more than 120 natural hot springs, making it the only capital city in the world that is also a spa city. And Széchenyi is the crown jewel — one of the largest thermal bath complexes in Europe, with fifteen indoor pools and three grand outdoor pools steaming in the open air year-round. On a winter morning, the sight of chess-playing retirees half-submerged in 38-degree water while snow falls on their heads is peak Budapest.

The story starts in the 1860s, when engineers drilled deep wells under what is now City Park and struck hot water. The Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance bathhouse was designed by Győző Czigler and built between 1909 and 1913, its bright yellow facade now one of the most recognisable landmarks in the city. The massive outdoor swimming pool and thermal pool were added in 1927, and the famous image of elderly Hungarians playing chess on floating boards has been the defining picture of Budapest bathing culture ever since.

The water comes from two thermal springs at depths of over a thousand metres, emerging at temperatures between 74 and 77 degrees Celsius — hot enough to cook in. By the time it reaches the pools, it has been cooled to between 27 and 38 degrees. The mineral content is rich in calcium, magnesium, and sulphate, and Hungarians will tell you, with absolute conviction, that it cures everything from arthritis to heartbreak.

Beyond the thermal pools, there are saunas, steam rooms, and — in a thoroughly modern addition — sparty events where DJs play to crowds dancing in the warm water on summer nights. The mix of elderly locals doing their morning soak alongside tourists and party crowds is uniquely, wonderfully Budapest.